A Beginner’s Guide to Choosing PMU Colors

February 4, 2026|Athena Shultz

A Beginner's Guide to Choosing PMU Colors

The SofTap Way: Simple, Safe, and Predictable

Choosing PMU color is one of the biggest stress points for new permanent makeup artists. It's permanent! What if you choose the wrong color? And what if it changes color over time? No one wants that. Too warm, too cool, too dark—and suddenly you're worried about long-term healing, color shifts, or future corrections.

At SofTap, we take a very different approach to PMU pigment selection. We don't think beginners need complicated formulas or intimidating color theory charts to choose the right eyebrow pigment.

Instead, we choose pigment by answering two simple questions, then we use the SofTap Color Chart to narrow down the exact PMU pigment.

The Two Questions That Matter When Choosing PMU Color

1. How Dark Do You Want Your Brows?

This determines the depth of the PMU color.

Light – soft, airy, very natural. Choose a light pigment.
Medium – balanced, versatile, safest for most clients. Choose a medium pigment.
Dark – stronger definition and higher contrast. Choose a dark pigment.

Beginner rule:
If you're unsure, choose lighter. Depth can always be added at the touch-up.

2. How Much Red Do You Want in Your PMU Color?

PMU pigments are chosen by richness and warmth, not just how they look in the bottle.

A lot of red – for clients who like warmth, such as strawberry blondes, redheads, auburn hair, or very cool-healing skin. Also ideal for correcting gray or ashy brows from previous work. Choose pigments from the Warm Collection.
Some red – the most common and forgiving option. This is the best starting point if you or your client is unsure. Choose from the Neutral Collection or the Iconic Pigment Line.
No red – for clients who prefer ash tones, are very fair with very warm skin, or tend to pull red easily. Choose from the Cool Collection or the Iconic Pigment Line.